Cos Atelier RTW Spring 2023

After a first runway outing during New York Fashion Week last fall, Cos brought its upscale Atelier line to Paris for an off-calendar show on Wednesday.

Models walked through gilded reception rooms overlooking Place Vendôme in a mix of soft tailoring and silk slipdresses in a combination of neutral tones, spliced with pops of bright orange.

The London-based brand, which is owned by H&M, remained true to its minimalist style with outfits that brought to mind Mathieu Blazy’s understated aesthetic at Bottega Veneta. Think a black one-shoulder crop top and midi skirt for her, or a white tank top, black Bermuda shorts and black woven leather bag for him.


Cos design director Karin Gustafsson said she was inspired by haute couture for the day-to-evening capsule, which is priced slightly higher than the brand’s main collection.

“There’s a lot of internal construction that is originated in traditional dressmaking, and it allows you to wear the garments in different ways, so you can, for example, change the neckline, whether you want it high or whether you want it low,” she said. “We really wanted to have almost a feeling of being bespoke.”

Gustafsson said local legend Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was her design hero. “I absolutely love her work. I think she was such a pioneer when it comes to creating clothes for women, and the fact that she started with fabric rather than drawing, and also that she always started with the shoulder,” she enthused.

The Swedish designer dispensed with fastenings on oversize linen suit jackets that were worn over matching waistcoats and paired with baggy pants or a floor-length skirt with deep slits. The ’90s-style slipdresses came in silk versions, some with streamers attached, or in slinky knits.

With their timeless aesthetic, the looks — which are scheduled to land in 21 flagships worldwide and online on Friday — provide a savvy spin on high-street chic that can live in wardrobes for more than one season. “You can dress up, but it’s also standing for longevity,” Gustafsson said.

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