Missoni RTW Fall 2023

Filippo Grazioli had PJ Harvey in mind for his fall Missoni collection, which had more of a bohemian, rock ‘n’ roll feel. There were faux-fur chubbies in the house’s signature zigzags, slinky dresses dangling sparkly drawstrings, and mirrored sunglasses to shield out the world.

It was an improvement over his debut of scanty, gossamer party dresses in mostly black and white and candy colors. He had returned to the tawny palette associated with the heritage brand — a mix of sand, rust and baby blue — and Missoni’s most iconic patterns, including the flame-like fiammato

, which appeared in relief as thick pile on dresses and coats.

The zigzags looked a tad old-fashioned rendered in mannish trouser suits or a belted trench, but zestier when draped and ruched on long, clinging jersey dresses, or zhushed up with metallic yarns or tiny crystals.

Backstage, Grazioli talked about the masculine elements he brought into the mix this season: roomy outerwear, loose trousers with swagger, and even a bomber jacket.

The most striking coats had the fuzzy, festive texture of tinsel, some in solid colors and others with zigzag pile in silver or gold.

Almost everything underneath skimmed the body closely, though covering more of it than in his first runway effort. To be sure, Missoni is skewing in more of an evening direction, at least for its runway expression.

Grazioli described the collection as suitable to a big-city lifestyle, which is why he plans to shoot the campaign in New York City. “That’s where I’m seeing this girl,” he said.

A rose print, lifted from a 1984 collection, was the main archival element, though hardly immediately associated with Missoni. Let’s see if Grazioli sticks with it and makes it so.

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